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Published April 16, 2009, 12:00 AM

Stuff We Like: Barker’s Island Walleye Quesadilla

Of all the fish in our lakes, the walleye that is turned into a quesadilla at the Barker's Island Inn is among the best.

By: Jana Hollingsworth, Duluth News Tribune

When ordering certain types of fish in the Twin Ports, one expects it to come from Lake Superior.

That’s not always the case. At the Barker’s Island Inn Galley Restaurant in Superior, the menu says its whitefish comes from local suppliers — a wise choice.

It doesn’t say that about the walleye quesadilla, but I am hoping it still applies. At dinner last Saturday with my extended family, I was able to sample several of the menu offerings while hopping from plate to plate, and the quesadilla was by far the best.

The menu describes the appetizer as being a jalapeno flour tortilla stuffed with breaded walleye, cheddar jack cheese and diced red onion. It comes with lettuce, sour cream, tomato and salsa, but our sour cream was forgotten.

The delicate flavor of the walleye shone through its light batter and wasn’t outdone by the vague heat of the tortilla or the strength of the cheese. In fact, I tasted little of the cheese but you could see it was present. The tortilla probably was grilled in butter to get its rich flavor. Not exactly healthy, but tortillas grilled at Mexican-American restaurants that dominate Minnesota outside of the Lake Street area in Minneapolis (a true Mexican food haven), are often bland or cooked to a flavorless crisp. This tortilla had a lovely char to it.

Lots of restaurants that offer a quesadilla subscribe to the theory of the more cheese the better, negating the point of filling it with anything tasty and relying on the cheese to carry the show, which, I guess, is sometimes the point. But there is room for creativity with this ubiquitous Mexican snack, and the chef at Barker’s Island has found a good way to showcase it with a favorite regional fish.

About the Walleye Quesadilla

Cost: $9.99

Where: Barker’s Island Inn Galley Restaurant, 300 Marina Drive, Superior

More info: Go to www.barkersisland